11:30pm
The alarm goes off. I know I shouldn’t, but
I’ve only had four hours’ kip. I hit snooze…
Midnight
I’m stumbling round the room like a drunk.
This is what bumbling looks like. I should have been gone by now, but I’m
faffing. As the silly little panniers on the KTM 990 SM-T are so pointlessly
small, I’ve filled them in no time: one has extra waterproofs and three spare
sets of gloves; the other has food, water and the change of visors that won’t
fit in with the gloves. I’ve had to strap a drybag on the back seat to actually
carry a change of clothes.
12.15am
I’m standing on a deserted petrol-station
forecourt in Failsworth, which is where I thought we were meeting. It feels
like I’ve fallen for an elaborate and well-executed wind-up. As soon as I set
off – thinking, “Sod it, I’ll just do it anyway” – I spot a group of 20 flouro-bibbed
riders parked up 50 yards away outside the Territorial Army building that
doubles as the Oldham Sappers’ depot.
1am
We’re off. I get straight to the front of
the group. By the time I’m on the M60, there aren’t even any headlights in my
mirrors. I settle into a steady 85mph cruise and sit back, massively relieved
that at the last minute I’d wired the Klan heated gloves in.
2am
This is surprisingly easy. I’m not feeling
tired. I’m well on my way north, on the M6. Why has the fuel light come on? I
was expecting to get another 30 miles from this tank. Pulling in at the
mercifully close services, four clicks down finds neutral: I just did 105 miles
in fifth, not sixth. Maybe I’m not properly awake yet, after all…
4am
Glasgow, filling up again. Food for me and
the bike. I’m expecting this next stretch to be gruelling: friends who work
nights say it’s hardest to keep awake between 4-5am. I have a sandwich, then
get back on it. My aim is to make sure no stop is more than 10 minutes long: no
point riding hard, only to piss away my average speed by standing about in
petrol stations.
6am
That was hard. Not the tiredness – I feel
perfectly awake – but the cold is awful. Past Perth, up the A9, a chill white
mist rolled off the hills to cloak the road as a feeble grey excuse for a dawn
slowly broke. Strength-sapping weather, spirit-crushing conditions. Every bone
I’ve ever broken aches. It feels as if my right-arm – which in X-ray looks like
a jigsaw held together with Meccano – seems to have barely enough grip to hold
the throttle open. I’m genuinely surprised there’s enough strength in it to
lift the petrol nozzle at the Tesco in Inverness.
7am
Here’s the first validation point on the
ride: the Royal Engineers depot in Elgin. Locked up fast. It’s a TA center and
is deserted, because I’m here too early. I take a pic of the bike in front of
it, eat and drink, then head on down the road.
8am
I’ve never ridden this stretch of the A95
before – what a great road. After hundreds of miles of mostly dual carriageway,
it’s as refreshing as the pint of lager at the end of Ice Cold In Alex… It
flows and curls elegantly past dozens of distilleries, a Speyside dream trip
that’s refreshing the parts other roads just wouldn’t reach.
10am
Glasgow again. For the first time I’m
feeling slightly tired. Not glassy-eyed or sleepy, but remote. I’m on the
motorway headed south when I catch myself observing the ride, rather than
actually being there in the moment. It’s like drifting off in front of a dull
TV programme. That’s a spine-chilling thought so I stop for another coffee and
more food, filling the tank despite having done only 60 miles on it.
Midday
I’m past half distance, which gives me a
huge psychological boost. I can't believe how comfortable the SM-T is proving
to be: my legs are relaxed, my back is fine – only my shoulders are aching
slightly, but rolling them helps. Then I realize drivers must think I’m
pretending to row past them, some sarcastic speeder on an orange bike.
12.45pm
Now I'm elated again. From Alston, the SM-T
has devoured the blindingly good B6277 to Middleton-in-Teesdale. Complete with
sheep and clumps of thick snow by the roadside. Stunning road, brilliant bike. Halfway
along I stop for food and to take a snap with the phone. It’s utterly isolated,
beautiful. Priceless. I'm eager to get back on the SM-T: riding it on this road
is as invigorating as a shot of espresso.
2pm
A1, southbound near Leeds, I have a moment
of arse-awareness. I'm not sore, but I notice I’ve been sitting on it for 13
hours. Hang on, 13 hours? That’s amazing – I’d expect my bum to be in agony
long before that on a normal seat. The Airhawk seat-pad I’ve fitted to the SM-T
is miraculous.
2.30pm
Yawn… close eyes. Blink open, cold sweat on
the neck. Look ahead. Yawn… Blink. Christ, it happened again. “Tiredness Kills”
says the sign. Too right. Blyth services are just ahead. Stop for a coffee and
a serious word with myself. If I can’t get it together, if I can’t wake up,
I’ll have to stop. It’s not safe otherwise.
4pm
This is better. More than better, in fact.
I’m past Cambridge, heading for the Royal Engineers depot in Waterbeach (it’s
on the other side of the road to Landbeach, which I find strangely hilarious).
By quarter-past I’m standing in front of the barracks, one of the Sappers on
gate duty taking my picture. “How far behind you are the others?” he asks. I’ve
no idea – must be a couple of hours. “But it’s not a race,” I say. He grins: “Yeah,
and you’re winning.” I grin too. Sat nav says it’s an hour from here to
Chatham. Helmet on at half-four, it does feels like I’ve come onto the final
straight of a race. I know I can do this now.
6pm
That was tough. Really tough. The M25, with
50mph limits, cars going everywhere, congestion, filtering, a muddled fuel
stop. Brain struggling to follow the sat nav instructions. Tiredness is making
a moron out of me. I have no attention span, every train of thought derailed
before reaching a conclusion. I’m struggling to operate the indicators. I can’t
remember when I last looked in the mirrors.
8pm
Brake! I suddenly realize the caravan in
front is moving much slower than I am. Shouldn’t be a surprise, as I’ve been
following it for at least a mile. But I think I was asleep for a second, eyes
wide open. How could that… Woah! Brake again. I can’t hear the engine of the
beating of my heart in my ear drums.
What worked
The KTM 990 SM-T definitely worked. A big tank
range sounds like the key to this kind of caper but in fact I was filling up
roughly every 110 miles for food/pee/drink/stretch stops. Though I was
averaging only 38mpg (the SM-T will do 44mpg when ridden more steadily) I only
saw the fuel light when I'd ridden 100 motorway miles in fifth, not sixth… Doh!
How was it for you?
"It was hard – which I expected, but I
wasn't prepared for just how bad the fatigue would be," says organiser
Phil Caloe. "At one point I was so physically tired I couldn't work the gearshift
properly. I couldn't move my leg. Even now, two of my fingers are numb. When we
were stopped at Birchanger Services, my eyes were playing tricks on me: I could
have sworn I saw green giraffes walking across the car park. It was some of the
other guys in their hi-viz vests, but I was so tired I was practically
hallucinating.
"It was gruelling. I asked myself many
times in the first 12 hours what I thought I was doing – I just couldn't keep
my eyes open for long. I never knew you could actually ride a bike while
apparently asleep. I have no idea how far I rode in this state." Kaz Smith
"My shoulders are wrecked and my eyes
feel like they've been peeled with your gran's potato peeler!" Darren le
Gallais
Simon Weir
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